Antwerp, Belgium + Boquete, Panama
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Alison is obsessed with her customized sleepy tea. And by customized, we mean combined with booze. A little sleepytime tea, some whiskey, a a bit of lemon juice has her feel comfy, cozy, and ready for a good night’s sleep. She may have to make an iced version of this as the season’s change. Staying on the hydration train, Lulu is obsessed with her crystal water bottle. She’s not 100% clear on the how’s and why’s about its benefits, but it is pretty if nothing else.
Alison is needing a new car. It’s not even a wish, it’s a need. And maybe, just maybe a result of some frustration with her spouse. Lulu is in desperate need of an office chair. This far in to a WFH world pandemic situation, and her chair has gotten some serious wear-and-tear going on.
Lulu is headed to Belgium! She’s "been" to Waterloo before, but this time she is headed to the port city of Antwerp, known as the diamond capital of the world (she’ll get around to that later in her day, don’t worry.). She is staying at Lit d’Art - literally means “art bed” - a stunning boutique hotel that marries contemporary design with an art nouveau feel. It has four suites - art, creative, inspiration, and design, the latter of which Lulu chooses. It boasts a freestanding soaking tub in the room, a luxury bathroom with a double rain shower, and a sitting area with a gas fireplace. Just a few minutes on the website and Lulu is ready to move in permanently, just check out the pictures below! All bookings include breakfast in the open kitchen or open-air roof terrace with murals by Antwerp artist Charlotte de Cock.
Hotel owner Aida uses her passion for style and eye for detail to work with specifically with Belgian artists to fill the space with beautiful pieces. You can even buy the art and furniture found throughout the hotel! How incredible is that? Depending on the season, the four suites can range anywhere between $300-600 USD a night.
Antwerp is known for its visionary fashion and art scenes, and Lulu plans to take full advantage of this during her visit. Her first stop is to see The Whisperer, an interactive sculpture by Daisy Boman. A somewhat abstract interpretation of a reclining figure with a speaker box next to it allows you to leave messages via an app, and then with a code that message can be replayed for its intended recipient whenever they next drop by. The speaker also emits recorded sayings for anyone that change every so often. What message do you think Lulu will leave? And who for?
Next Lulu goes on an “art walk” through Middelheim Open Air Sculpture Museum, an art-meets-nature happy place with over 400 sculptures throughout a park! And it is free to enter! First up is Carl Andre’s 74 Weathering Way, a runner, not like one in a marathon but rather like a on-a-table or down-the-aisle, or in this case, on-the-ground. Made up of 74 unique steel plates that have received varying levels of wear and tear over the years, what with weather conditions and being walked on, this piece creates “an interaction in which the sculpture is part of the space and the space, in turn, is part of the sculpture.” The next piece she encounters is Wind and the Willows by Laurence Weisner, and to her seems more like words and a concept, yet is presented as a sculpture. She tried reading this paragraph explaining why these “words-for-sale” are classified as sculpture but got lost half way through. The last “piece” she observes is title Poetry by Phillipe Van Snick, but you will not finds words or rhymes here, rather a hybrid of math, physics, water, and some mechanical timers.
While her curiosity is piqued, Lulu wants help understanding what she is observing. She found this free “What is Contemporary Art?” class by MoMA to give her some insight!
Who doesn’t love school supplies? And luxury? How about luxury school supplies? Lulu gets a personalized crocodile embossed calf leather notebook by Smythson for $455, a Smythson grand fountain pen for $995, and Tom Ford blue-light blocking glasses for $415. How’s that for some back-to-school shopping?
After all of that art and learning, it’s time for lunch. Lulu heads to Amadeus Antwerp, where you can get unlimited ribs for just 17€, and the best Irish coffee. The zany costumed Mozart holding ribs on the homepage banner image is reason enough to visit this chain restaurant.
Now for some shopping! Lulu heads to Antwerps Kantwinkeltje - “Antwerp Lace Shop” - to buy some Belgian princess lace and a lace handkerchief. You can do virtual shopping through WhatsApp or FaceTime! After her lace shopping Lulu pops in to Masion Dandoy, passing up the obvious waffle option for a little speculoos snack. You know the stuff.
We mentioned earlier that Antwerp is the diamond capital of the world. Because approximately 60-80% of the world’s diamonds end up there, it is one of the cheapest places in the world to buy diamonds. And they are a girl’s best friend, so… Lulu takes a look around Wim Meeussen, jewelry designers specialized in rough Antwerp diamonds handset. She purchases this Funeral Mourning ring with an urn and a diamond. It is used for keeping the ashes of a deceased loved one close. She also gets some stackable rings.
Worn out from all of that shopping, Lulu ends her day at the oldest restaurant in Antwerp - Elfde Gebod - which translates to “11th commandment”… you know the one… thou shalt drink beer and enjoy thy life. Effusively decorated with antique christian art, the space eschews a sacrilegious-chic vibe. Lulu orders the mussels in white wine, bitterballen, apple strudel so good “you’ll understand why Eve couldn’t resist”, and a 20€ glass of Westvleteren XII, which is considered the best beer in the world.
We’ve "been" to Panama City, but this trip is more of an off-the-grid adventure. Alison found quite the gem in the highlands of Boquete (pronounced boh-KEH-theh), which apparently is the best place to retire in the world! The longest running bed & breakfast and the only registered small luxury hotel in the area, Panamonte Inn & Spa is what your luxury-tropical-cottagecore dreams are made of! Alison books the Garden Honeymoon Suite, and is looking forward to dining in their on-site restaurant which Condé Nast Traveler has named one of the best restaurants in Central America!
Now, despite being four years in to hosting a travel podcast and all of the research that comes with, Alison defaulted to travel planning website Scott Dunn to find this destination. She found lots of Panama-specific information though, which was very helpful and expedited her research process.
Alison is going to the Boquete region because it is the home of Barú Volcano National Park, and Panama’s one sleeping volcano. She is going to embark on the 16 mile hike with 6,000 plus feet of elevation gain to get to the crater’s ridge. According to AllTrails.com this hike is rated difficult. She plans to start at midnight so she can get to the top in time for the sunrise! She hires a guide through ToursByLocals.
This means she’s going to need some serious gear for encountering increasingly cold weather as she climbs. She is properly outfitted with:
Montbell Mirage Parka - $399
Multiple hiking bloggers suggest that it is necessary to have a headlight or a torch for the journey. She chooses a torch, obviously! Specifically this stainless steel flower fire torch for $948. The thing is meant to be on a stake in the ground. It uses a propane gas tank and requires a technician to install. Can’t imagine this would be comfortable to carry for 16 hours. Perhaps if you embark on a similar overnight volcano hike, opt for a hands-free option like a solar-charging headlamp.
After her rigorous hike, Alison needs some pampering and sustenance. First is a stop for every possible service at the Valle Escondido Golf Resort & Spa. Massage, facial, the works! Then she grabs a bite at Colibri Restaurant… a plantain basket and some shrimp ceviche and passion fruit tiger’s milk. Not sure what that last one is, and sadly she won’t actually find out, as Colibri has permanently closed due to the ongoing pandemic. There are loads of good restaurants run by locals and expats alike, one that seems especially worthwhile for authentic Panamanian food is El Restaurante Y Cafe El Puente.
Next up is a 2.5-hour chocolate class at The Perfect Pair where you learn everything about cacao, and how to pair your chocolate with coffee! After her tour she heads for dinner at Casa Vieja - translates to “Old House” - where she gets trout AND a burger.
After dinner she goes on a coffee tasting tour. She learns all about the history, processes, and the ethical & environmental impact of coffee growing. You get to explore the farm, the facilities, and then indulge in a side-by-side tasting with a barista! They even offer to pick you up from your hotel if you are in Boquete!
To close out her adventure and caffeine filled day, Alison heads to Tree Trek Boquete for their Hanging Bridges Tour! Then its back to her Honeymoon Suite to relax solo.
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